Speaker programme

2020 sessions will take place 3rd - 5th November

From 12:00 -17:00 (GMT) each day

Sessions will include:

  • Tuesday 3rd November: Internal and external influences in skin ageing

  • Wednesday 4th November: Technologies and new concepts for improving and protecting ageing skin

  • Thursday 5th November: Consumer expectation, benefits and claims

  • Thursday 5th November: Measuring anti-ageing skin care benefits and supporting claims

2020 Speakers confirmed so far

Dr Jack Ferguson

Skinnovation, UK
For the Sun Protection, Anti-Ageing and International Skin Protection Conferences
  • Biography

    Jack Ferguson obtained a BSc honours degree in Biology with Chemistry and a PhD in Bioengineering, both from Strathclyde University, Glasgow. He has worked in the cosmetics industry for over 20 years. After spending some time with Beecham Products in Leatherhead, he moved to the Boots Company in Nottingham, where he worked for 15 years. His final responsibilities were as Head of R&D Services, Boots Contract Manufacturing. During his time there he was joint developer and promoter of the Boots UVA star rating system.

    From Boots, Jack moved to Oriflame International, Dublin, and was R&D Director there for five years, before leaving in 2000 to set up a new company, Skinnovation Ltd. Skinnovation provide contract product development services for clients and focus on sun and skin care products and also on product claims support for advertising. Jack also works as cosmetics consultant for ITV, providing technical and scientific advice on claims support for television scripts in advance of broadcasting. He has been active in the Cosmetic Trade associations, particularly in the sun care area, and was the chairman of the Colipa ‘Sun Protection Measurement' TF 1990-1998 and chairman at the time the Colipa SPF test was developed and published.

  • Presentation Outline

Stephan Bielfeldt

Vice President and Director Science and Innovation
proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research GmbH, Germany
Clinical Signs of Photoageing correlate with the Water Content in the Dermis
  • Biography

    Stephan Bielfeldt has more than twenty-five years of working experience in the field of skin research. From 2001 until 2017 he was the Director Research and CTO and become 2018 Vice President and Director of Science & Innovation at proDERM Institute for Applied Dermatological Research. As the head of the research department he leads a team of scientists that perform applied in vivo and in vitro research studies in the field of cosmetics, food supplements and consumer products. His specific expertise comprises claims support studies. Stephan is further a specialist in the field of photobiological studies. As the head of the technical department Stephan leads a team of scientists and engineers who develop in vivo and biophysical test methods. He is member in two societies dedicated to scientific cosmetology and has published a large amount of scientific papers mainly in the field of in vivo skin research methods and claims support.

  • Presentation Outline

    Dermal water content is known to increase with age.
    In this work we investigated the dermal water content of human forearm skin in vivo in mild to moderate photoageing by use of confocal in vivo Raman spectroscopy.
    The assessments revealed a distinct increase in dermal water in relation to photoageing. Dermal water content might be used to quantify the degree of photoageing.

Prof Mark Birch-Machin

Prof of Molecular Dermatology and Faculty Director of Business Development
Newcastle University, UK
The relationships between nutritional status, antioxidants, bio-energy and interventions on human skin ageing
  • Biography

    Mark Birch-Machin, PhD, is Professor of Molecular Dermatology at Newcastle University (UK), Institute of Cellular Medicine, Director of Business Development for the Faculty of Medical Sciences, Visiting Professor, Adelaide (CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation) and University of Adelaide) and Faculty Ambassador for the UK National Innovation Centre for Ageing.

    He previously worked at Universities in Oregon, Paris, Toronto and Adelaide. He is a member of the Editorial Board of several international dermatology journals, and national/international advisory boards (including cosmetic companies) and grant committees for skin research and UK cosmetic regulation.

    His research group focuses on the response of human skin to the environment, particularly within the context of skin ageing and has been funded over the last 30 years by UK research councils, charities, UK government as well as global companies. He has played a pivotal role in pioneering the use of mitochondrial DNA as a biomarker of sun damage in skin. He has an interest in understanding the role of mitochondria in UV and environmental-induced oxidative stress, skin cancer and the relationship between oxidative stress, nutritional status, pigmentation and skin aging as well as the science and use of sunscreens. He has published extensively including 3 different Nature journals.

    He has co-founded two spin out companies (Canadian and UK) and is also a co-inventor on multiple patents including the invention of a dermatology product that sold in over a 1,000 stores in Canada. He has a long established track record of working with international media for more than 20 years.

  • Presentation Outline

    Coming soon!

Prof Patrick Bonnett

Development Director
UK National Innovation Centre for Ageing, UK
Innovating for An Ageing Society- the vision of the UK National innovation Centre for Ageing
  • Biography

    Patrick has worked widely across the applied research and innovation arenas for over 35 years in organisations ranging from small technology start-ups to internationally recognised translational research laboratories.

    He acts as an Advisor to UK Government on the Ageing Grand Challenge, is a member of Nanyang Technology University (NTU) Singapore’s International Advisory Board for ARISE (Ageing Research Institute for Society and Education) and a member of the BSI Committee Ageing Society Committee, a Board member of the Association of Innovation, Research & Technology Organisations (Airto: http://www.airto.co.uk/) and Vice Chair of the UK Science Park Association (UKSPA: http://www.ukspa.org.uk/.

  • Presentation Outline

Dr Damilola Fajuyigbe

Scientific and Medical Strategy Manager
L’Oreal Research & Innovation, France
Dark skin & the aging face
  • Biography

    Dr. Damilola Fajuyigbe is a scientific and medical strategy manager for L’Oréal Research & Innovation, managing Medical Directorate activities in Africa and collaborating with R&I Africa on scientific communication.

    For over 7 years now, she has actively contributed to the understanding of the impact of skin colour on photobiological responses, with first author publications in 4 international journals. She completed her PhD in Molecular Biology at the world renowned St John’s Institute of Dermatology, Guy’s Hospital,

    Now, her main research focus is on the clinical characterisation of the hair and skin physiology of Africans residing in Africa. To understand the effects of different environmental factors and grooming practices, in an attempt to give insight into the common clinical presentations of hair and skin disorders in this population.


  • Presentation Outline

    It is often noted that 80 - 95% of visible skin aging are attributed to lifelong sun exposure. Photoaging manifest uniquely in different skin types. The degree of pigmentation confers photoprotection on pigmented skin (Fitzpatrick's skin types IV to VI), such that the effects of photoageing is delayed by 10 to 20 years compared to Caucasian skin. In addition, the signs that accompany this photoageing are less severe, especially with regard to the appearance of wrinkles. It appears more as rhytides than wrinkling. There is an increasing body of work demonstrating the role of solar light in the photoageing of dark skin, especially for its melanogenic effects. The loss of skin pigmentation homogeneity, appearance of irregular pigment grains and keratosis are the first and more devastating signs of aging for dark skin individuals. Solar light – mediated pigmentary changes are markedly reduced by the use of sunscreen with UVA protection factor (UVAPF) to sun protection factor (SPF) greater than 3. Sunscreens infused with antioxidants have also been shown to be beneficial in protection against dermal damage and results in fewer clinically apparent pigmentary lesions.

Dr Chris Gummer

Cider Solutions Ltd / Clearcast Consultant, UK
The microbiome, anti-ageing and skin health claims
  • Biography

    With over 20 years experience as a senior technologist and research fellow with Proctor & Gamble, Chris now runs his own consultancy and has extensive experience working with a broad range of FMCG and pharmaceutical companies on some of the world’s leading consumer brands.

    Chris divides his consultancy between two main areas. First, fundamental research and measurement of hair and skin, particularly where products and devices interact with the body. Current areas of focus include in-vivo measurement of antioxidants, product-skin interactions for babycare, feminine hygiene, APDO’s and the measurement techniques for devices for hair growth, hair removal and control of skin pigmentation. Second is a diverse expertise in claim substantiation both as a generator and a regulator. He is a technical consultant for Clearcast, who manage UK Broadcast advertising, and an expert panel consultant for the Advertising Standards Authority. His expertise covers all products that contact and penetrate the skin and hair including detergents, textiles, baby and feminine care products and all personal care formulations. He co-organises international courses on claim substantiation and advertising regulations for proDerm (De), Statistics for Industry (UK), and TRI (US).

  • Presentation Outline

    Constrained by Cosmetic Regulations and the Medicines Directive, anti-ageing product and ingredient claims have nowhere to go. The latest product releases, with known efficacious ingredients, are stuck with the same old claims. The claims of today haven’t changed for 30 years. Improved mildness, reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, reduction in age spots etc. are nothing new. Combined with little overall improvement in efficacy it must be time for a fundamental re-think of what we mean by anti-ageing, how we deliver a meaningful change for the consumer, and how we embark on new claim strategies.

    I’ll take a look at why we are where we are and the shackles we can’t cast off. I’ll consider the next phase of the anti-ageing message and claims that should take us through the next 10 years. And I’ll round off with why the much touted microbiome is not the route forwards.

Dr David Gunn

Senior Scientist
Unilever R&D, UK
Cell senescence - on the precipice of new anti-ageing technologies?
  • Biography

    After gaining a PhD in genetics, Dr Gunn carried out postdoctoral research at Newcastle University investigating the genetic determinants of left-right asymmetry diseases in human patients. In 2000, he joined Unilever Research and Development in the UK, focusing on genomic investigations into the mechanisms of skin ageing. As well as publishing work in many scientific journals, Dr Gunn’s research has been of particular interest to the layperson leading to coverage by TV and radio news channels, digital media and at international conferences. Working at the interface between basic scientific research and translational science, Dr Gunn’s work focuses on how biological insights can be translated into benefits for the general public and for the Unilever business alike.

  • Presentation Outline

    Introduction - As cells get older, they accumulate damage which, once it disrupts normal cell function, leads to cellular senescence. In this state, cells are unable to divide, become larger and release lots of secretory factors, such as inflammatory cytokines, which can damage surrounding cells and tissue. A number of compounds that selectively kill senescent cells (termed senolytics) have been identified, and human trials testing the efficacy of such compounds have now begun. However, the degree of presence of senescent cells in skin is relatively unknown.

    Methods - We studied skin biopsies from 200 people of European ancestry, ranging from 20-80 years of age. Photographs of individuals were used to estimate perceived age and the extent of skin wrinkling, and the biopsies used to count the number of cells positive for the senescence marker p16 and measure elastin content. In the laboratory, we used Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) to drive melanocytes into a senescent state and employed them in melanoderms (laboratory grown skin equivalents) to study their impact on epidermal physiology.

    Results - Senescent melanocytes were the main senescent cell in the epidermis, with 10% of melanocytes senescent in 60year olds (<1% in 20year olds). Those with high numbers of senescent melanocytes looked old for their age, had increased wrinkles, and aged elastin in the upper dermis. There was increased DNA damage in keratinocytes surrounding senescent melanocytes versus normal melanocytes. UVR driven senescent melanocytes damaged and disrupted normal keratinocyte functioning in melanoderms which was negated by killing the senescent melanocytes.

    Conclusions - Senescent melanocytes are a key feature of aged skin, cause DNA damage to surrounding cells, disrupt normal keratinocyte functioning, and associate with aged elastin and looking older. This work strongly implicates cell senescence as a key driver of ageing in skin, and tantalising highlights senolytics as potentially powerful new anti-ageing technologies for skin.

Evamaria Kratz

Head of the Department for Cosmetic and Drugs Testing
Chemical and Veterinary Surveillance Institution, Germany
Borderline claims and claim substantiation from the view of an official cosmetic control laboratory
  • Biography

    Evamaria is a Food Chemist by qualification. After finishing her studies, Evamaria was employed in the food industry and worked as a manager in the field of research and development with hydrocolloids (gellifiying agents).

    Evamaria specialised in rheological methods, having complete a course on the understand of behaviours, which was necessary for the standardisation of the products.

    Having worked for 10 years in the food industry, Evamaria moved to the surveillance authorities where she worked on commodities, looking for hazardous substances in toys, clothes, dishes and so on.

    Later Evamaria focused on household chemicals, such as detergents and cleaning agents and was a consultant for food safety and regulations at the Ministry of Rural Affairs and Consumer Protection. She later joined the cosmetic team at CVUA Karlsruhe in 2006.

    Evamaria is now the Head of the Department of cosmetics and drugs for Baden-Württemberg where they check over 2300 cosmetic samples per year and are developing new analytical methods to be able to detect critical substances.

  • Presentation Outline

    Presentation outline coming soon!

Prof Paul Matts

Research Fellow
Procter & Gamble, UK
Selfies, devices, apps and Big Data… whatever next??
  • Biography

    Paul joined Procter & Gamble 1988 and has spent the majority of his career in R&D conducting research and developing methods to feed the technology pipelines of brands such as Olay, Max Factor, Dolce & Gabbana, SKII, and others. As Research Fellow, he has specific expertise in measurement / modelling of many aspects of skin structure, function and appearance, sun protection and the psychology of perception of skin, among other areas.

    He is Visiting Professor to the London College of Fashion and University College London School of Pharmacy and the Chair of the Cosmetics Europe (European Trade Association) Expert Team: Regulatory Aspects of Sun Protection and a Fellow of the Royal Society of the Arts and Royal Society of Chemistry. He is a proponent of Community Dermatology and involved in and highly passionate about several projects in Africa related to skin disease and its prevention / treatment using low-cost, sustainable materials. Paul is married with three children and, when he has time, a fanatic UK SCUBA diver and BSAC instructor.

  • Presentation Outline

    Presentation outline coming soon!

Prof Andrew McBain

Manchester University, UK
The microbiome in skin ageing: what we know, knowledge gaps, and a potential role for probiotics and postbiotics
  • Biography

    Andrew McBain studied for his PhD in Medical Microbiology at the University of Cambridge with the Medical Research Council. Since 1999, his research at the University of Manchester has focused on antimicrobials and microbial control, and the interaction of microorganisms colonising the skin, nasopharynx, oral cavity and intestine with the human host in health and disease.

  • Presentation Outline

    A review of the microbiome/microbiota of the skin, including an objective look at the methods used to profile microbiotas. What bacteria are present, that they might be doing, and what we know and don't know about skin microbiome in ageing.

Dr Marisa Meloni

VitroScreen, Italy
Targeting inflammasome mechanisms as a possible role of the microbiota in skin ageing
  • Biography

    Marisa Meloni, obtained a PhD in Drug Delivery and Cutaneous Biophysics from Renée Descartes University, Paris V. She has been contract professor of safety assessment of cosmetic products at Milano, Salerno and Padova Universities.

    Having been in charge of research and innovation within the dermo-pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry for 20 years, in 2001, Marisa founded VitroScreen, a research and testing laboratory based on in vitro science with a focus on innovation in pre-clinical studies using advanced 3D tissues models within cosmetic, pharmaceutical and chemicals industries.

  • Presentation Outline

    SKIN and associated MICROBIOTA together build a complex community that describes an evolutionary organ under genetic and evolutionary control enabling the protection against exposome. This community has a strong symbiotic relationship in a continuous cross-talk, which influences both counterparts’ behaviour. However the knowledge of skin biology and aging process has been built up during decades without consideration of the interactions with associated microbiota community. The scientific community is now facing a lack of knowledge in this respect and also the challenge in re-thinking the fundamentals of the skin ageing process.

    Age-associated low-grade inflammation (inflammaging) is now recognised as being a driving force of many age-associated diseases linked to irreversible cellular and molecular damage that is not clinically evident because it slowly accumulates over decades. Inflammaging is believed to be a consequence of a re-modelling of the innate and acquired immune system, resulting both in cumulative lifetime exposure to pro-inflammatory cytokines at older ages and production of reactive oxygen determining modification to skin appearance and involvement in chronic diseases. (Baylis et al. Longevity & Healthspan 2013 2:8).

    The presentation will focus on the effects of UV induced inflammasome in the aging process in presence/absence of bacteria representative of 2 main classes: commensal ( S.epidermidis ATCC 1228 and C.acnes ATCC 11828) and opportunistic ( S.aureus ATCC 33591 and C.acnes virulent ATCC 1182). Reconstructed Living 3D Human Skin was used that mimics the real site where the skin-microbiome interaction occurs and allows the identification of the mechanism by which the bacteria can influence skin health and appearance and consequently the skin ageing process.
    Inflammasome (oxidative stress and inflammation) has been induced by low, biologically relevant UV dose, 2MED and a dynamic approach based on inflammasome biomarkers kinetic has been applied by adopting a multiple end-points approach and targeting extracellular matrix proteins (pro-collagens, pro-elastin, integrins) at the dermal level

Dr Karl Lintner

KAL’IDEES-Beauty Ideas
From petri dish to pre-clinical for predicting clinical results
  • Biography

    Dr. Karl Lintner obtained a Degree in Chemical Engineering from Vienna University (Austria) and a PhD in Biochemistry from the same University.

    After 10 years of Research on Biological Peptides at the Nuclear Research Centre in Saclay, France (>30 papers in biochemistry and biophysics published), he became Laboratory Manager, then Marketing Manager (product development and worldwide technical support) with the HENKEL Company, Düsseldorf, Germany.

    He joined SEDERMA in 1990 as Technical Director and later headed the company for ten years as Managing Director/CEO.

    Presently, Karl Lintner is an Independent Consultant to the Cosmetic Industry (President of KAL’IDEES S.A.S.).

    Karl taught classes on cosmetic chemistry and skin biology at the ISIPCA school of Perfumery, Cosmetics and Aroma in Versailles.

    He has filed several dozens of patents, published numerous articles and book chapters on cosmetic ingredients, and is an active member of SCC (chaired COSA in 2011) and SFC (France). For 4 year, Karl was Editor-in-Chief of the Int. Journal of Cosmetic Science. He was awarded the prestigious Maison de Navarre Medal of the SCC in 2012 and won the In-Cosmetics Lifetime Achievement Award in 2013.

  • Presentation Outline

    Measurement techniques and substantiation of "anti-age" claims are progressing. Where simple monolayer cell culture studies in vitro may teach us about cellular and biochemical mechanisms, they are far removed from consumer usage reality; their predictive power of clinical "anti-age" efficacy is extremely limited.

    Using 3D skin models built either from scratch (reconstituted human skin layers) or from excised skin of living persons (plastic surgery explant tissue) constitutes a great step forward to understanding and mimicking product efficacy on living skin. Given the high interpersonal variability of these explants from various donors (age, lifestyle, disease history...), even those models are sometimes wanting.

    Developing 3D skin models that possess specific more standardised features (dermis artificially aged with enzymes, disrupted epidermal-dermal junction with a different approach, and further models in the pipe...) come again closer to clinical reality. The development, use and advantages of these models with concrete study data will be presented within the general context and proposed title "from petri dish to pre-clinical for predicting clinical results" .

Dr. Claire Leduc

Biology and Scientific Manager
From petri dish to pre-clinical for predicting clinical results
  • Biography

    Dr. Claire Leduc is Biology and Scientific Manager at SYNTIVIA. After a PhD in cellular and molecular biology, she completed her training with a Master in Innovation and Technology Management at the Toulouse Business School. She brings her double competence in both scientific and business matters to adapt and optimize the development of active ingredients, in response to demands from the dermo-cosmetic market. She is also responsible for the scientific communication and marketing activities.

  • Presentation Outline

    Measurement techniques and substantiation of "anti-age" claims are progressing. Where simple monolayer cell culture studies in vitro may teach us about cellular and biochemical mechanisms, they are far removed from consumer usage reality; their predictive power of clinical "anti-age" efficacy is extremely limited.

    Using 3D skin models built either from scratch (reconstituted human skin layers) or from excised skin of living persons (plastic surgery explant tissue) constitutes a great step forward to understanding and mimicking product efficacy on living skin. Given the high interpersonal variability of these explants from various donors (age, lifestyle, disease history...), even those models are sometimes wanting.

    Developing 3D skin models that possess specific more standardised features (dermis artificially aged with enzymes, disrupted epidermal-dermal junction with a different approach, and further models in the pipe...) come again closer to clinical reality. The development, use and advantages of these models with concrete study data will be presented within the general context and proposed title "from petri dish to pre-clinical for predicting clinical results" .

Neelam Muizzuddin, PhD,

Skin Clinical Research Consultants - LLC, USA
Balancing skin Microbiome - fact or fiction
  • Biography

    Neelam Muizzuddin is operating a consulting company where she offers skin clinical research designing, testing, data mining and training as well as preparing manuscripts for publication.

    Neelam has worked in the cosmetic industry for over three decades as a Clinical Research Scientist. She has extensive expertise in managing GCP compliant clinical studies pertaining to safety and efficacy of topical materials and is proficient in utilizing skin bioengineering instrumentations for skin measurements. Neelam is a serious student of skin microbiome. She has several publications as book chapters, patents and peer reviewed journals. At present she is President of “Skin Clinical Research Consultants LLC” and Adjunct Professor at SUNY Stony Brook.

    She is a Member of several skin measurement and dermatology societies and actively participates in the administration of scientific conferences in her field.

    She is also an instrument rated pilot and artist and a pastry chef.

  • Presentation Outline

    The skin is the human body’s largest organ, colonized by a diverse environment of microorganisms, most of which are harmless or even beneficial to their host. “Microbiome” describes a biodiverse ecosystem composed of living biological and physical components that create a balance between host and microorganism. Symbiotic microorganisms occupy a wide range of skin niches and protect against invasion by more pathogenic or harmful organisms. Studies have shown that skin microbiota play an integral role in the maturation and homeostatic regulation of keratinocytes and host immune networks with systemic implications. Disruptions in the balance on either side of the equation can result in skin disorders or infections.

    An enhanced understanding of the skin microbiome would gain insight into microbial involvement in human skin disorders and to enable novel promicrobial and antimicrobial therapeutic approaches for their treatment. However, the human skin microbiome varies considerably over time, thus study of the effect of topical agents on skin microbiome is wrought with inconsistencies. There is a deluge of skin care products claiming to “balance” skin microbiome, however, the description of this “balance” is rather nebulous. This talk will provide an overview of skin microbiome, discuss testing methods and whether some claims in this field are fact or fiction.

Dr. Bernhard Paetzold

Cutibacterium acnes the main component of the facial microbiome and its role in skin ageing
  • Biography

    Bernhard completed his PhD in synthetic biology, working together in collaboration with the pharmaceutical industry to engineer bacteria as a living pill. He is a scientific co-founder of S-Biomedic, and is leading the research and product development. His passion is understanding the complex interplay of the bacterial communities that live within and on us. He is fascinated by the untouched potential of active compounds that are naturally produced everyday right on our own skin.

  • Presentation Outline

    C. acnes is the main bacterial component of the skin microbiome on sebaceous and dry body sites (Byrd et al. 2018). Despite its dominant role on the skin, many skin treatments aim at eradicating this bacterial species. I will present a selection of examples of the literature why this bacteria is important to us, how it has a symbiotic relationship with its human host and highlights its role in skin ageing.

Dr Apostolos Pappas

Adjunt Professor
Rutgers University, USA
Sebum: Lipid Profiles in skin ageing and different ethnicities'
  • Biography

    Dr. Pappas received his Ph.D. from Rutgers University in ’99 and began his professional career that year as a research biochemist in the Skin Research Center of Johnson & Johnson. Later, in 2001, he served as a group leader at Munich Biotech, where he worked on cancer research. In 2003, he returned to Johnson & Johnson, where he was a Research Manager and Fellow focusing on skin and lipid metabolism research.

    Dr. Pappas is one of the first to culture cells that were previously not cultured; as human primary sebocytes and human facial preadipocytes. He has authored 40 peer-reviewed scientific publications, patent applications, and four books. While at Johnson & Johnson, he collaborated with many experts and KOLs to open a new field within the academic textbook arena and curriculums on “Nutrition and Skin”, which was published by Springer in 2011. The success and wide recognition of this project paved the way for his second academic textbook by Springer in 2014: “Lipids and Skin Health”; which is the very first of its kind.

    Dr. Pappas became an adjunct faculty member with the Department of Food Science at Rutgers University (since September 2013) and a member of the Rutgers Center for Lipid Research. He was also appointed as a member of the scientific advisory board of directors of the CARF Society and visiting faculty at TRI Princeton.

    His interdisciplinary training and breadth of experience in lipids, metabolism, stem cells, microbiome and skin research has led him to initiate and chair major symposia and lectures in many prestigious societies and universities.

  • Presentation Outline

    The skin is the largest organ of the human body. Skin oil synthesis is fundamental for skin functions and health.
    Skin Lipids’ chemistry and biology seem unusual, as many lipid species are not found in other tissues within the human body. Skin’s surface lipids are of sebaceous and keratinocyte origin. Triglycerides, waxes and squalene are secreted by the sebaceous glands and are deposited via the hair canal on the surface of the skin. Sebaceous oil is involved in the pathogenesis of acne, seborrheic dermatitis, oily hair as well as hair loss. Complex and unusual desaturated fatty acids, waxes as well as unusual squalene accumulation are unique manifestations for skin biology and health. In addition, more evidence has been advocating that essential dietary fatty acids and their metabolites are influencing the hair follicle and fur in several preclinical models.
    On the other hand, epidermal lipids as ceramides are fundamental for the skin barrier’s properties. Recent studies have demonstrated the involvement of the epidermal oil barrier in eczema and dry skin conditions. Understanding the roles of skin lipids is fundamental for decoding the basic physiology of healthy skin and hair as well as ethnic and ageing skin. The insights from the lipid profiles in skin ageing and from different ethnicities will be discussed.

Aïna Queiroz

Head of Innovation & Scientific Communication
Seqens Cosmetics, France
Holistic approach to target skin ageing
  • Biography

    After several years working at Solabia, Aïna Queiroz was recruited in 2014 by ID Bio, now known as Seqens Cosmetics, to head the Research and Development department and develop the cosmetic active ingredient offering.

    As an expert in Skin Biology and Phytochemistry, she is now the Head of Innovation and Scientific Communication and identifies tomorrow’s strategic research areas for the company.

    Her career, recently completed with a specialization in Ethnobotany at the Faculty of Pharmacy of Lille, France, also enabled her to contribute to carrying out field scientific investigations and setting up plant sectors, as part of the company’s Sustainable Innovation strategy.

  • Presentation Outline

    The cosmetics industry is officially entering the Holistic & Emotional Era and no longer considers aging from the same angle. The challenge is no longer to simply reduce wrinkles, but to support positive and harmonious aging with a holistic perspective, understanding, for example, why some populations have the ability to live longer and healthier than others.

    Heavily inspired by its advanced research carried out in the field of Blue Zones, in which there is an exceptional proportion of centenarians, Seqens has made it a main development axis: towards a holistic approach of successful ageing at skin level.
    The R&D teams first focused on getto (Alpinia zerumbet or Alpinia speciosa), plant known to contribute to longevity in Okinawa. The getto extract thus developed was tested at transcriptomic, proteomic and clinical scale with a view to investigating its potential in terms of healthy aging.
    These studies were able to demonstrate a benefit in the expression of genes associated with SAASPs on an “aged” fibroblast model (Hayflick replicative senescence model). At ex vivo scale, after treating skin explants, an improvement in DEJ morphology and undulation was observed as well as a significant increase in the level of markers such as collagen I and laminin 5. In terms of clinical evaluation, VISIA-CR evidenced an improvement in skin texture after treatment with a 2% getto extract formula versus placebo after 28 days and 56 days. Treatment with the getto extract also helps give the skin a more “healthy” appearance, by promoting a rosy glow instead of a yellowish complexion, one of the visible signs of skin aging.

    In parallel, current progresses in scientific psychology and neurosciences also provide relevant concepts and methods to rationally substantiate evidence regarding emotional benefits. SEQENS Cosmetics collaborated with Emospin to design a quantitative evaluation of the emotional benefits of an active ingredient, with measurable parameters such as prosody (vocal parameters conveying emotional information) and verbatim (lexical field spontaneously used by the volunteers to describe their global experience).
    In line with the scope of the better understanding of positive aging, this study highlighted a significant improvement of the emotional state with an evolution towards a more optimistic, more positive lexical field in the group of volunteers treated with a very high-molecular-weight exopolysaccharide developed by SEQENS versus placebo.

Annie M Ugurlayan

Assistant Director
National Advertising Division (NAD)®, USA
U.S. advertising self-regulation and recent cosmetics advertising cases
  • Biography

    Annie Ugurlayan is an Assistant Director at the National Advertising Division (NAD) and Deputy Director at the National Advertising Review Board (NARB) of the BBB National Programs. She joined NAD in 2003 and handles a wide variety of cases and has successfully argued appeals before the National Advertising Review Board. Annie oversees case management and advises first-time participants on the NAD Procedures and process. She has been NAD’s liaison to the local Better Business Bureaus. Annie is also a frequent lecturer at conferences nationwide and abroad, particularly on cosmetics advertising on which has developed an expertise. She became Deputy Director at the NARB in 2019. Annie oversees administrative matters including scheduling of appeals and issues relating to panel members. She also drafts NARB compliance decision on behalf of the NAD.

    Prior to NAD, Annie was an associate at O’Hare Parnagian LLP where she focused on real estate transactions and general litigation. She is also a published author and is actively involved in various bar associations, including Vice-Chair of the Advertising Disputes and Litigation Committee of the ABA’s Section of Antitrust Law. Annie is the Treasurer of the New York Women’s Bar Association Foundation and is a Fellow of the American Bar Foundation. Annie is fluent in French and Armenian and proficient in Romanian. She is a graduate of Hamilton College (B.A., magna cum laude) and the Maurice A. Deane School of Law at Hofstra University.

  • Presentation Outline

    Annie will provide an overview of the National Advertising Division of BBB National Programs (NAD), the flagship of the U.S. advertising industry’s system of self-regulation, and present its recent cosmetics and personal care cases. Attendees will gain valuable guidance on claim substantiation and learn more about hot topics on NAD’s radar.

Deanna Utroske

CosmeticsDesign.com, USA
Wellness and wisdom: Market and consumer trends in skin ageing
  • Biography

    Deanna Utroske is a leading voice in the cosmetics and personal care industry as well as in the indie beauty movement. As Editor of CosmeticsDesign.com, she writes daily news about the business of beauty in the Americas region and regularly produces video interviews with cosmetics, fragrance, personal care, and packaging experts as well as with indie brand founders.

    She is a globally sought-after speaker and industry commentator, sharing ideas and insights with market research firms, consumer, B2B, and professional beauty magazines and sites, as well as with the audiences of industry podcasts and at cosmetics, personal care, and packaging events around the world.

    Beyond Cosmetics Design, you can find Deanna Utroske on LinkedIn, Instagram, and Twitter.

  • Presentation Outline

    More and more beauty consumers are turning away from the anti-ageing narrative of conventional marketing and seeking out alternative care and treatment products that help them to live better lives longer.

    In this presentation, Deanna Utroske, expert cosmetics and personal care industry observer and Editor of the business news website CosmeticsDesign.com, speaks about today’s inquisitive beauty and wellness consumers and their relationship with skin care as well as about what retailers, brands, manufacturers, ingredient makers, and media are seeing and saying about the new anti- anti-ageing marketplace.

Daniel Whitby

Division Manager
Lake Personal Care
Digital beauty – A review of where we are now and a look to what the future will Bring
  • Biography

    Daniel has worked in the personal care industry for over 20 years in a variety of roles including formulation, new product development, innovation, technical marketing and claims testing. He has developed patented technologies, been responsible for the introduction of several innovative claims into the beauty market place and has presented at numerous cosmetic science events. A regular contributor to industry journals, he has a passion for trends analysis, ingredient innovation and understanding consumer interaction with products. An extensive industry network including journalists, bloggers, consultants, brand owners and scientists gives him a unique insight into what the future may look like for the beauty industry. Daniel lectures on the Cosmetic Science BSc course at Sunderland University and is a member of the SCS RDG North team. He currently works in the Lake Personal Care team using his knowledge of emerging trends and market insights to promote their raw material offer across the UK.

  • Presentation Outline

    As we move forward in the 21st century technology becomes increasingly entwined within our every day lives.

    Beauty, being an industry which is driven by innovation and a continual search for new, is not exempt from this. The application of digital technology within the industry works on many levels from point of sale to mobile phone apps and also devices in the professional salon environment. Digital beauty allows consumers to engage with, and be guided on use for, the increasingly complex products and regimes which are being launched. They ensure compliance with usage instructions and can quantify efficacy, encouraging the consumer to persist with product use. In store they can be used to guide the consumer, to ensure their purchase is the perfect match to their needs, offering a degree of personalisation.

    Apps can advise consumers on a daily basis with regards to the impact of external factors such as the weather on the condition of skin ensuring, for example, that high SPF products are used on days where high UV exposure is forecasted. Consumer trust in digital advice is high and we are seeing digital being used as an expert in the pocket, even offering consultation services. When used in an omni-channel environment devices and apps can drive increased sales and brand awareness.

    In this talk an overview of where we are with digital beauty will be presented with details of some of the most recent launches, the influences which are shaping and informing the trend, consumer insights and a look to where the future may lie.