Speaker programme29 - 30 November
Royal College of Physicians, London
Conference sessions and themes:
The theme for this year's conference is: Skin Health and Ageing Across Life Stages
We'll focus on ageing of healthy skin across life stages and highlight the fact that our skin starts ageing from birth with ever-changing needs. Scientific research has recognised that there are different 'tipping points' in terms of skin biology; understanding these across specific stages of life helps navigate the prevention and treatment of ageing signs to enable and inspire new ideas for product development in skincare.
Session 1: The Science of Skin Ageing Across Life Stages
Session 2: New Concepts and Technology Approaches in Functional Skincare
Session 3: Consumer Trends, Advertising and Claims
Session 4: Assessing the Benefits of Anti-Ageing Skincare
Speakers for the 2022 edition:Stay tuned for more speaker announcements
Paul joined Procter & Gamble 1988 and has spent the majority of his career in R&D conducting research and developing methods to feed the technology pipelines of brands such as Olay, Max Factor, Dolce & Gabbana, SKII, and others. As Research Fellow, he has specific expertise in measurement / modelling of many aspects of skin structure, function and appearance, sun protection and the psychology of perception of skin, among other areas.
He is Visiting Professor to the London College of Fashion and University College London School of Pharmacy and the Chair of the Cosmetics Europe (European Trade Association) Expert Team:
Regulatory Aspects of Sun Protection and a Fellow of the Royal Society of the Arts and Royal Society of Chemistry. He is a proponent of Community Dermatology and involved in and highly passionate about several projects in Africa related to skin disease and its prevention / treatment using low-cost, sustainable materials. Paul is married with three children and, when he has time, a fanatic UK SCUBA diver and BSAC instructor.
Ageing. So what? The Rev Dr Martin Luther King said, the night before his assassination, “Like anybody, I would like to have a long life”. In this presentation I will consider this longevity, so precious to humankind, in the context of skin. We will discuss the inequality of life-span and experience across developed and resource-poor settings, the various consequences for skin / systemic biology, effects on psychological well-being and perception and also the implications for skin care approaches and technology of the future.”
Professor Rachel WatsonProfessor of Cutaneous Science
The cliff edge: What does the menopause mean for our ageing skin?
I graduated from the University of Sheffield with a BSc (Hons) in Anatomy & Cell Biology in 1992, where I also studied for my PhD. In 1994 I moved to the University of Manchester to take up a research position in the Wellcome Trust Centre for Cell‐Matrix Research; during this period I completed the writing of my PhD (which was awarded by the University of Sheffield in 1997). In 2006 I was elected to the executive committee of the British Society for Investigative Dermatology where I served for 6 years. In 2009 I was appointed a Senior Lecturer at the University of Manchester, was promoted to Reader in 2014 and Professor in 2017. I currently sit on the British Association of Dermatologists UK-TREND committee and on the Executive Board of the European Society for Dermatological Research.
My research focuses on understanding human ageing, with particular reference to skin. The ageing process can be divided broadly into two categories: that which occurs as a consequence of time (intrinsic ageing) and that which is the result of an individual's interactions with their environment (extrinsic ageing). The major environmental factor which impacts upon skin is long‐term sun exposure (ultraviolet radiation, UVR), although other stimuli also exert effects (sun‐bed use, smoking, atmospheric pollutants etc.). In addition to examining the mechanisms underlying skin ageing, I also have an interest in understanding remodelling and repair of human skin occurs once damaged. This includes understanding how drugs, such as retinoids, interact with the skin to promote repair, dietary protection against UVR‐mediated damage and performing ‘proof of principle’ in vivo clinical studies on emerging therapies. I am supported by a wide range of funders including the BBSRC, the NIHR and commercial companies.
The last thirty years has seen an enormous expansion in our understanding of how skin ages, and a greater appreciation specifically in how our environment impacts the clinical presentation of our skin. However, whilst we have gained significant insight into the changes which underpin these changes at older ages (> 65 years), there are gaps in our knowledge as to when these changes begin to occur.
For women, one important biological stressor is the reduction and subsequent loss of sex hormone production at the time of the menopause. It is important to note that most women will spend approximately 1/3rd of their lives in this post-menopausal state; consumer research shows that it at this time of life when women begin to appreciate changes to their skin function and appearance. In this lecture, I will describe changes to the anatomy and physiology of the skin and highlight areas where targeted interventions may be of benefit.
Michael Hoptroff has 25 years’ experience in skin microbiology and has been a leader in Unilever microbiome innovation for over 10 years. During his wide ranging career he has published on topics including dandruff, hand hygiene, the microbiome of healthy and dry skin and the application of machine learning to microbiome data leading to product innovations for leading brands including Dove, Vaseline, CLEAR and Lifebuoy. During his career Michael has spent time working in the UK, USA and China where he spend 4 years heading Unilever’s biological research team.
Advances in sequencing technology inform our growing understanding of what the human skin microbiome is, what it does and how it contributes to skin health and disease. Similarly, our growing understanding of how the skin microbiome changes on the journey from birth through to old age is leading to a new appreciation of the mechanisms by which curates its resident microbial population and how, in turn these microbes influence skin condition and health.
Dr Samantha Tucker-SamarasGlobal Vice President Science & Technology, Beauty and Personal Care R&D
What does the future hold for the science and technology of aging?
Sam is responsible for delivering innovations in the 25Bn Beauty and Wellbeing and Personal Care business across the Skin Care & Cleansing, Prestige, Deodorants, Hair and Oral Care categories. This includes disruptive technologies, external facing scientific authority, insights and claims, underpinned by leading edge scientific expertise and enabling capabilities. She is also responsible for clinical testing across the business which supports disruptive superior claims, and new fundamental understanding.
Prior to Unilever, Sam has over 20 years of experience across Pharmaceuticals and Consumer Healthcare, all focused on innovation. She spent a decade at Johnson & Johnson leading discovery research in the consumer sector, initially on beauty/skin needs then later leading innovation and claims strategy for the baby business. Sam became a fellow of J&J in 2009 and won the prestigious Johnson’s Medal in 2014. Prior to J&J, Sam spent 11 years at Merck focusing on infectious disease, in the area of Malaria, and natural product antibacterial discovery.
She received her MS from Seton Hall University, her PhD from University of Dundee and became a fellow of the Royal Society of Biology in 2016. When she is not learning something new in science, she spends time with her husband, three children, a goofy dog, and as much outside time as possible, for where there is nature there is beauty.
In order to address skin aging, the need for cutting edge expertise and capabilities to unravel that unique biology has evolved significantly over the last decade. The advent of multi-omics, machine learning and AI, combined with advances in both sequencing and more predictive models, have helped unlock deep expertise in this complex biology. As we look to the future, what does the landscape of beauty evolve to? We will discuss new science areas in skin health, the affect on wellbeing, and how the future of beauty through the biology of aging is changing.
Dr John OblongPrincipal Scientist
Inflammaging in human skin: Early onset of senescence and imbalanced epidermal homeostasis across the decades.
John joined P&G over 28 years ago with a diverse research background in plant biochemistry as well as cancer research. He completed his undergraduate studies at Loyola University (Chicago, IL) and received his PhD in Molecular Genetics and Cell Biology from the University of Chicago. His postdoctoral studies in redox regulation in cancer were completed at the Arizona Cancer Center, University of Arizona.
Since joining P&G, he has been actively involved in numerous skin and hair biology projects. John is currently responsible for identifying fundamental insights on skin ageing and applying these to identify skin care technologies that deliver benefits to both female and male global consumers. A main focus of late for his research has been on identifying key elements from various theories of aging (e.g., Hallmarks of Aging, mitochondrial theory of aging) and their correlative effects on impacting skin aging and health.
Inflammaging is a theory which purports that low-level chronic inflammation leads to cellular dysfunction and premature aging of surrounding tissue. Human skin is susceptible to inflammaging because it is the first line of defense from the environment. This exposure is heightened in photoexposed skin where solar radiation leads to premature aging termed photoaging. To better understand the impact of aging and photoexposure on epidermal biology we performed a systems biology-based analysis of photoexposed and photoprotected body sites from women between the ages of 20’s to 70’s. This presentation will provide an overview of the body of evidence that suggests young photoexposed skin is undergoing inflammaging. We hypothesize that the presence of chronic inflammation and SASP factors in young skin contributes to an imbalance of epidermal homeostasis that leads to the prematurely aged appearance of skin and underlying health status during later life.
Deanna UtroskeBeauty Industry Thought Leader
Age progression: Preventative & reparative skincare for every generation
Deanna Utroske is one of the most well-respected critical thinkers in the cosmetics and personal care industry today.
Her work as a public speaker, beauty business commentator, and trade media editor covers topics spanning ingredients, formulation strategy, product innovation, and packaging design as well as key trends driving the cosmetics and personal care industry forward, like green chemistry, industry entrepreneurship, and more.
As a consultant, Deanna develops business content for ingredient companies, product manufacturers, and other supply-side businesses, helping them grow in key B2B markets.
She is the former Editor of Cosmetics Design and now frequently contributes to global trade media publications and insight platforms.
You can discover more about Deanna’s work for the cosmetics and personal care industry and subscribe to her weekly newsletter at DeannaUtroske.com.
Beauty consumers today are ageing. And they are more interested than ever in multi-dimensional wellness, effective skincare, daily sun care, and healthy ageing resources. Today’s beauty consumers intend be tomorrow’s beauty consumers for many generations to come; and their expectations of the industry are advancing too.
In this presentation, cosmetics and personal care industry thought leader Deanna Utroske discusses the routines, products, brands, and messaging that resonates with contemporary beauty consumers across generations as well as about how retailers, manufacturers, ingredient makers, and media are responding to the growing demand for preventative and reparative skincare.
Professor Tarl ProwDirector, Skin Research Centre
University of York
Towards data-driven quantification of skin ageing: microsampling and reflectance confocal microscopy
Professor Prow has £6.5m in open grants in research programs that include early melanoma diagnostic technologies, skin cancer treatment, and the study of the consequences of environmental contaminant exposure to skin. He also has an extensive industry collaboration, commercialisation, and licensing portfolio. Of note artificial intelligence (AI) and molecular diagnostics represent an area of significant innovation opportunity and funding in dermatology. In this respect, Prof Prow has also been working in the field of skin cancer utilising AI for triaging lesions for molecular diagnostic informed disease management.
Studying skin ageing is challenging because the molecular and immunological processes involved are complex, time/location sensitive and model dependent. Less invasive approaches for studying skin ageing processes, anti-ageing treatments and preventive strategies could facilitate step change improvements in skin ageing research. In this presentation, non-invasive imaging for quantification of skin ageing will be explored with a focus on reflectance confocal imaging. Minimally invasive skin sampling, using skin microbiopsy, will be presented as a tool that can enable researchers to carry out skin ageing research in volunteers to replace animal models.
Stephan BielfeldtVice President of Science & Consultancy
Dermal Ageing: Assessment of collagen, Elastin and AGE in vivo
Stephan Bielfeldt has a degree in Bioengineering. He is Vice President Science & Consulting at proderm GmbH in Hamburg / Germany. He is responsible for the development of new skin research methods, as well as the consultancy of customers in the field of clinical studies design and methodology. Stephan has been working in clinical research for more than 30 years. Special fields of his expertise are photobiology / sun protection, in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and clinical studies of skin microbiome. His list of publications contains more than 100 scientific publications. He is a member of professional societies, such as the Society for Dermopharmacy (GD) and of scientific working groups of the German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK). As a member of the ISO TC working group (WG 7) Sun Protection Test Methods, he works on the international standardization of sunscreen testing methods.
As human skin ages, there is both a breakdown of protein molecules, such as collagen, and a formation of dysfunctional proteins, such as abnormal elastin and advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in the dermis.
Such complex, slow changes over time lead to a decrease in skin elasticity and tone. Furthermore, AGEs lead to an irregular yellow discoloration of the skin.
There are several non-invasive in vivo technologies available to study the three protein types in ageing skin. They are suitable to discriminate intrinsic aging from photo-ageing and allow studying the effects of cosmetic anti-ageing-treatments on the living human dermis.
Based on literature as well as on own clinical findings and measurements the actual research status regarding dermal ageing and age related protein alterations will be presented and discussed.
Dr Oliver WorsleyCEO & Co-Founder
A user-friendly skin microbiome patch to best predict skin age through genomics
Oliver is Co-Founder & CEO at Sequential Skin, a biotech startup revolutionising skin health with the world's first consumer skin microbiome test, using genomics to characterise the skin and improve skin health. Oliver also co-founded Sequential Bio, a first-in-class Microbiome testing company specifically for consumer products – in vivo certified to Maintain the Microbiome™, allowing for the highest quality of in vivo skin microbiome analysis for the rigours of R&D and claim substantiation.
Previously, Oliver was a junior Principle Investigator at the Genome Institute of Singapore (GIS) and completed his PhD at GIS/NUS as an A*STAR scholar. Oliver is a published author in the field of epigenetics and microbiome research, and previously founded Anya Consulting which has contributed over 150 articles and technical whitepapers to the healthcare industry. Oliver completed his BSc at Edinburgh University, with six months at Leiden University Medical Centre through the Erasmus Scholarship.
Our skin biology evolves directly with our environment in a tightly connected symbiotic way. It may then be unsurprisingly to know that the skin microbiome is the best predictor of chronological age, compared with other human-microbiota niches. Since launching the world’s first skin microbiome consumer test in 2019, Sequential Skin has been on a path to fully uncover how the skin microbiome relates to chronological and biological age.
Professor Mark Birch-MachinProfessor of Molecular Dermatology
Skin Analysis: Is the Future Catching Us? The impact of science on consumer decisions.
Mark Birch-Machin, PhD, is Professor of Molecular Dermatology at Newcastle University (Translational and Clinical Research Institute and UK National Innovation Centre for Ageing) and former Faculty Director of Business Development.
He previously worked at Universities in Oregon, Paris and Toronto. He is on the Editorial Board of international dermatology journals, and national/international advisory boards (including cosmetic companies) and grant committees for skin research and UK cosmetic regulation.
His research group focuses on the response of human skin to the environment (including sunlight and pollution), particularly within the context of skin ageing and has been funded over the last 30 years by UK research councils, charities, UK government as well as global companies. He played a pivotal role in pioneering the use of mitochondrial DNA as a biomarker of sun damage in skin. He has an interest in understanding the role of bioenergy and mitochondria in UV and environmental-induced oxidative stress, skin cancer and the relationship between oxidative stress, nutritional status, pigmentation and skin aging as well as the science and use of sunscreens. He has published extensively including 3 different nature journals.
Mark co-founded 3 spin out companies in Canada and UK, and the most recent in June 2022 is the UK spin out company called Skin Life Analytics. He has a long established track record in the international media including TV, radio, newspapers and popular beauty magazines (> 20 years).
Our skin is subject to an increasing variety of stress in this present century from both external and internal factors that have the potential to cause damage including premature ageing. The external factors which have been described include increasing exposure to sunlight, environmental pollution as well as controversial and putative contributions including electronic pollution and blue light. The interaction of the whole light components of sunlight (i.e. UV, visible light (including high energy blue light) and infrared light) as well as their interaction with the other external stressors of skin are being elucidated but there are still areas where it is unclear. Furthermore, skin has its own independent internal clock which is driven by the circadian rhythm genes that modulate a described diurnal pattern of skin protection from external stressors and damage repair. A further layer of consideration are the differences in skin cell bioenergy where skin fatigue has been linked to the mitochondrial theory of ageing particularly as mitochondria are the major source of cellular bioenergy and 90% of cellular oxidative stress. There is also the additional question of how the dynamic of external stressors and the skin biological clock interacts with the internal factors of stressed skin such as lifestyle and diet. We will consider what interventions can be used to help prevent stressed out skin both now and in the near future as part of the increasing personalised approach to skin protection. In addition, we will detail bio-molecular skin tests that make the “invisible” skin damage more visible to enable a tracking of skin damage over time but also to facilitate the evaluation of interventions on skin protection thereby helping consumer decisions.
Dr. Barbara LynchResearch Scientist
Ex vivo layer-by-layer analysis of mechanics and microstructure of the ageing dermis
Dr. Barbara Lynch holds an MSc in Physics from École Centrale de Lyon, France and a PhD in Biomechanics from École Polytechnique, France, during which she also was a visiting student in Manchester University for 6 months. She has been working in the cosmetic industry for ten years at L'Oréal Advanced Research. She currently holds the position of Head of the Skin Biophysics platform, in the Clinical Research Department. Her mission is to support cosmetic innovations through transversal and multi-disciplinary vitro and clinical studies, in particular in new scientific territories such as Skin Microbiome, Exposome, Regenerative Beauty. She is involved in the whole innovation process from skin knowledge, identification and validation of new scientific concepts to transformation into innovative treatments, as well as development of new skin characterization methods. Barbara is passionate about bridging together various expertises: biophysics, imaging, biology, chemistry and physico-chemistry; to generate disruptive innovations to change consumers’ life.
Age-related changes in skin mechanics have a major impact on the aesthetic perception of skin. For cosmetical applications there is a strong interest for locating the onset of degradation in the dermis to delay and counteract the earliest effects of age and prevent further damage: if the changes occur first in the uppermost layers, there may be an opportunity to correct the first signs of aging through topically applied creams in a preventive action. Furthermore, a precise understanding of the link between microstructure and mechanics is crucial: while perception is governed by macroscopic visual and tactile changes, treatments act at a microscopic scale.
In this talk, we will present and discuss a large study combining mechanical and microstructural data on ex vivo human skin, including from facial origin. Our results point to the upper dermis as a very relevant target to cure or prevent the effect of age on skin, and show that it is most important to protect one’s skin from an early age, preferably before 40 years old, to preserve skin overall youthful appearance and feel.
Dr Pascal Yvon, PharmD, MBASVP Commercial strategy and Sales
The future of antioxidant technologies: Probiotics and selective post-biotics
Pascal Yvon has more than 25 years of global experience in life sciences, including the cosmetic, biotech, pharmaceutical, and diagnostics sectors, covering sales, marketing, business development and general management positions in both small and large companies. Having spent half of his career based in France and half in the USA, Pascal has acquired commercial expertise with a multi-cultural sensitivity and an international approach. He has authored many trade journal articles and regularly speaks at leading industry events and conferences. Dr. Yvon holds a doctorate in pharmacy from the Pharmacy University, Paris and an Executive MBA from Rutgers University, NJ, USA. He is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, NY Chapter.
Antioxidants have long been a mainstay in the prevention of premature ageing. However, classic antioxidants are ill adapted to the use of the skin. The use of the natural skin microbiome derived antioxidant RoxP promises to be a game changer in this field. RoxP is evolutionary adapted to the niche of the skin follicle for increased fitness and health. The in situ production of RoxP through specific living Probiotics on the skin provides very high local concentrations, hence further enhancing its protective effects.
Dr Jack FergusonDirector
Changing trends in skincare claims over last two decades and a look to the future
Jack Ferguson obtained a BSc honours degree in Biology with Chemistry and a PhD in Bioengineering, both from Strathclyde University, Glasgow. He has worked in the cosmetics industry for over 20 years. After spending some time with Beecham Products in Leatherhead, he moved to the Boots Company in Nottingham, where he worked for 15 years. His final responsibilities were as Head of R&D Services, Boots Contract Manufacturing. During his time there he was joint developer and promoter of the Boots UVA star rating system.
From Boots, Jack moved to Oriflame International, Dublin, and was R&D Director there for five years, before leaving in 2000 to set up a new company, Skinnovation Ltd. Skinnovation provide contract product development services for clients and focus on sun and skin care products and also on product claims support for advertising. Jack also works as cosmetics consultant for ITV, providing technical and scientific advice on claims support for television scripts in advance of broadcasting. He has been active in the Cosmetic Trade associations, particularly in the sun care area, and was the chairman of the Colipa ‘Sun Protection Measurement' TF 1990-1998 and chairman at the time the Colipa SPF test was developed and published.
Product claims made through broadcast media have to be pre-approved in the UK. Pack copy, social media, internet and in-store promotional material and claims do not have the same controls and therefore product claims made through these routes tend to push the boundaries on what is claimed by advertisers. This is the same for all consumer product categories and especially so for skin care products where marketing and consumer aspirations and desires are expressed in the adventurous and sometimes exaggerated (aspirational) functional claims. This presentation will review skin care claims made in UK TV broadcast adverts over the last 20 years and highlight the major changes and attempt to give an indication of how future claims may look and what would be needed to support these claims.
Floriana VincisGlobal Claims Manager
No7 Beauty Company
Anti-Ageing claims through life: regulatory landscape, innovation and good practice
Floriana Vincis obtained a BSc in Biotechnology and a MSc honours degree in Bioinformatics, from the University of Tor Vergata, Rome. She has worked in the cosmetic industry for over 10 years across different roles, firstly in Boots, then in L’Oreal and now in No7 Beauty Company. These different experiences brought her to have a passion for claims and claims development, so Floriana’s current role is Global Claims Manager for No7 Beauty Company.
She now provides support to the different brands of the No7 Beauty Company, from concept phase to launch and marketing re-hits phase. She is involved in the creative process of claims creation and on the technical process of setting up protocols and working with the different regulators, to launch the strongest possible supported claims tailored for different markets around the globe.
Consumers are increasingly looking to their skincare regimes to provide holistic care, not only to affect skin appearance but also protection of its underlying health and function, in tune with its circadian daily and monthly variations, also in specific decades and through key life stages (such as pregnancy and the menopause).
Our science is also discovering much more about the connections between skin and the rest of the body, the impact of internal and external stressors, the importance of skin microbiome, the activity of key technologies and cosmetic products on and in the skin at all levels. With these discoveries comes the challenge to communicate the full performance of skincare products in an impactful way, whilst keeping within the regulatory definitions for cosmetics. The presentation will provide an overview of regulatory aspects across the UK and US markets, incl. the main routes to challenge and highlight the limits and opportunities for advanced, novel claims.
Dr Gopi MenonFellow
California Academy of Sciences
Skin as an organ of communication through the ageing process: speculations on impact of cosmetic science
Gopinathan K. Menon obtained his MS and PhD Degrees from the University of Baroda, India; and held a Faculty position there. In 1979, was awarded a Homi Bhabha Fellowship, and a Visiting Professorship at Michigan State University where he worked on Electron Microscopy of skin. In a later sabbatical at Dermatology department of University of California, San Francisco (UCSF) (1982- 84) he started to focus on skin barrier,in collaboration with Prof.Peter Elias, and became a full time Research Faculty in Dermatology at UCSF ( 1988-1993). From 1993 to 2017, he held various research positions in the personal care industry in the USA, including Principal Research Fellow & Head, Skin Biology research at Avon Products, and Senior Research Fellow at the International Specialty Products & Ashland, Inc. Presently he is a Fellow of the California Academy of Sciences, San Francisco; but based in the east coast where he is engaged as a consultant with the personal care industry His Honors include being awarded a Homi Bhabha Fellowship, elected as a Fellow of the California Academy of Sciences, chair of the Gordon Research Conference on Barrier Function of Mammalian Skin (2011), and induction to the GRC Chairs’ Hall of Fame (2012). He has been an invited speaker at several national and International meetings, and has over a hundred publications including research papers, reviews and book chapters.
Every living organism has a skin/integument of some sort - a validation for the statement by a dermatologist “ My organ is more important than your organ” This importance in everyday life is often taken for granted ( except perhaps by the beauty industry) but our interpersonal communications and evoked emotions are transmitted via skin and the signals that emanate from it. We will briefly go over this claim, and lean into the science behind skin communication how, such as physical, chemical and emotional signal detection, using evidence obtained from in vitro studies on keratinocytes . We will also delve into how aging modifies and often even changes these signals, and hence the overall quality of our life.
Dr Bhaven ChavanResearch and Technology Manager
Anti-ageing strategies – What’s next?
Bhaven’s research at Croda centres around Skin Care and Solar Protection. In particular, understanding how individual formulation ingredients interplay to provide differing final formulation efficacies and in turn consumer experience. Bhaven has 14 years’ experience working in industry and received his PhD from the Clinical and Experimental Dermatology Department within the University of Bradford which was a part of the Centre of Skin Sciences.
The term anti-ageing is starting to fall out of favour. People are embracing their imperfections and accepting positive ageing. Even though the cosmetic industry is moving away from this term, the need to maintain a youthful appearance is still ever present.
There are lots of anti-ageing actives available on the market and time needs to be spent to understand whether what we have can be delivered more effectively to reach better efficacy. This presentation will focus on strategies that can help better deliver actives into the skin and other aspects that need to be considered in order to achieve maximum efficacy of your skin care active.
Dr Frederic FlamentGlobal Head of Claims Science
To a personalized and inclusive anti-ageing experience: leveraging AI-automated assessment of facial signs and their respective weights on human perception
Dr Gaby PrinslooMedical Director
International Institute for Anti-Ageing
The Evolution of Ageing: What We'll Be Doing in 2032!
Dr Gaby Prinsloo is a medical doctor and expert in functional medicine, wellness and performance, with over 20 years’ experience as a medical practitioner. In her role as medical director for the iiaa, she spearheads the businesses’ Skin Health Research Centre. Dr Gaby brings a breadth of experience and expertise for an innovative, holistic approach to skin health and wellbeing, helping to educate skincare professionals and individuals alike.
Dr Gaby initially trained as a medical doctor at the University of Cape Town in South Africa, and spent 10 years working in general practice and emergency medicine before specialising in functional medicine, wellness and performance. Along the way, she gained a PhD in exercise science, exploring the impact of controlled breathing on stress and cognitive performance.
An expert in coaching and a qualified yoga teacher, Dr Gaby has studied functional medicine, nutrition, meditation, mindfulness, psychology, sleep and numerous healing modalities. She integrates these into a holistic, science-based approach to improving health and wellbeing reflecting the iiaa’s own 360-degree approach to skincare and wellness.
In addition to her role in research at the iiaa, these expertise inform Dr Gaby’s educational remit: supporting the iiaa and Advanced Nutrition Programme™ with training, seminars and informational content.
Before joining the iiaa in 2020, Dr Gaby spent 12 years working at the Sports Science Institute in Cape Town, South Africa where she specialised in holistic wellness and functional medicine. She also ran an executive wellness and performance consulting company.
Consumers are becoming increasingly educated and discerning. They want science-based products, effective results and personalised skincare.
There is a growing realisation that skin health is a reflection of systemic health, and an increased focus on the importance of wellbeing. There is also an increasing desire for nutricosmetics as consumers explore the synergy of topical and oral skincare.
These trends are all going to increase with time. If we want complete skin care and healthy aging, we need to focus on wellbeing and prevention. Unfortunately there is no quick fix - this requires dedication over time.
How do we shift the consumer mindset to embrace oral skincare? How do we increase motivation to be in for the long haul? And how do we make oral skincare accessible to all?
In this presentation, I will use my clinical and professional experience to illustrate the importance of optimising wellbeing in improving ageing and managing chronic skin conditions, with a specific focus on the importance of managing gut health and chronic inflammation. We’ll discuss how a comprehensive approach including oral skincare is key.
We will review the evidence-base for oral supplementation and explore how to make a functional medicine approach to wellbeing and skincare accessible to all. Lastly, we’ll look at how to motivate consumers to proactively manage their skin, whether you are a private healthcare provider, beauty therapist or retailer.
Dr. Anika BluemkeResearch Scientist
Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing: a comparison to the gold standard retinol
Dr. Anika Blümke has always been passionate about transforming scientific findings into real life innovations from which people can benefit. She studied Medical Biology and Bioscience at the University of Essen and Münster, Germany, spending research visits at Princeton University and BASF. During her PhD in Molecular Cell Biology, she focused on the ageing process in the context of protein misfolding.
Following her mission to create impactful scientific solutions, she started her industry career as a Research Scientist at Beiersdorf two years ago. In this position she addresses skin ageing and its versatile causes and consequences. Her approach involves the ideation, implementation, and finalization of research projects with the aim to find new anti-ageing treatments, including scouting of compounds, their characterization on in vitro and in vivo level, and the eventual claim creation. Consequently, she establishes new methods for modeling and assaying skin ageing and explores new topic areas of interest.
Skin ageing is a multifactorial process involving formation of reactive oxygen species and consecutive inflammation, causing reduced cell vitality, as well as damage to the extracellular matrix (ECM). Retinol is currently considered as the gold standard in anti-ageing cosmetics. Topical retinol application effectively reduces wrinkles, skin laxity, and photodamage-mediated dyspigmentation. However, the use of retinol is limited as it is associated with photosensitization and concentration-dependent skin irritation. Bakuchiol, a plant-derived meroterpene, is described to act similar to retinol and might bypass its limitations. We thus determined the activity profile of bakuchiol versus retinol on in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo level. This presentation will address the results of our studies in detail. Briefly, bakuchiol demonstrated various resemblances to retinol regarding its anti-ageing efficiency. Both agents acted anti-inflammatory, increased cellular activity, and the expression of various ECM factors, e.g. collagens. Strikingly, bakuchiol showed superiority over retinol for different skin ageing parameters including epidermal regeneration. An in vivo study additionally revealed a higher skin compatibility of bakuchiol versus retinol.
In summary, our data point out the multidirectional anti-ageing activity of bakuchiol and its potential to overcome limitations associated with the cosmetic use of retinol.
Dr Richard LerouxScientific and Technology Manager
Menopausal impacts on skin are not inevitable, strategies to reduce signs and discomfort.
Dr Richard Leroux is the Scientific and Technology Manager for SEDERMA, in charge of the promotion of SEDERMA’s scientific and technology capabilities and for open innovation projects with the commercial partners.
Dr Leroux has a PhD in organic chemistry from University of Rouen (France) on synthesis of biologically active peptides.
During the last 25 years, Dr Leroux has been part of the R&D leading team to develop the new generation of active ingredients capitalizing on his expertise in peptide chemistry and his experience to design biomimetic peptides as well as molecular structures inspired by nature.
Nowadays, Dr Leroux is also involved in the development of botanical actives, biotechnology and plant cell culture.
Menopause is a natural time in women’s life usually occurring in the late forties to early fifties. It acts as an accelerator of natural (also called chronological) and induced ageing in all the body organs. Women describe an upheaval in their physiology with changes in their external appearance (loss in skin firmness, elasticity, increased wrinkles or pore size, skin dryness…). It is therefore necessary, both before and during menopause, to combat the combined effects of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, both of which are aggravated in women by menopause.